Her chutzpah was rewarded: Bantry started having her assist Maller and, when Maller wasn’t available, fill in for her.
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Despite having no tear sheets or professional experience, Brown showed up at Bantry’s office looking for work.
When her earnest missive didn’t elicit a response, Brown tried calling Maller and then contacted Maller’s agent, Bryan Bantry, whose name she got from Maller’s outgoing answering machine message. “There was a story about a makeup artist named Bonnie Maller, who worked with Calvin Klein and Perry Ellis and Ralph Lauren and shot with Bruce Weber, and I thought oh my god, that’s so cool, so I wrote her a letter,” Brown says.
“It was very hard work but I understood that I could support myself.” A Mademoiselle article ended up setting her on a career path. “In retrospect it was probably one of the most important lessons I’ve learned,” she says. “Now they would probably call it entrepreneurship.”īrown and Jennifer Beals, circa 1998, on location at a magazine shootĪfter graduating, Brown bided her time waitressing. “They didn’t have a makeup program, but they had something called an interdisciplinary major where you could make your own ,” says Brown. Brown dropped out of the University of Arizona, where she was bored and unhappy, and transferred to Emerson College in Boston. Brown’s mother encouraged her to consider the idea that makeup could be more than just a personal passion perhaps it could also be a career. That was the first time I realized the whole glamour thing wasn’t for me.” Instead, she tried for a different look, what she describes as “tan and healthy and confident,” like her own paragon of beauty at the time: Ali MacGraw in Love Story. “I would play with her makeup and try to make myself look like her but it didn’t work. “In the seventies I used to watch in awe as my mother, who was very Jackie Kennedy at the time, did her makeup for nights out with my dad,” Brown recalls. The way Brown wielded makeup on herself from an early age was always for that purpose: it was never about transformation, but rather enhancement.
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“They made me understand that my life’s work has always been to help people, to empower people and to make people feel comfortable in their own skin.” “I spent so much of my formative years with them, and they were instrumental in who I am as a person,” says Brown, who explains that her Nana’s powerful nurturing and Papa’s natural ease in relating to each and every customer at his car dealership would inform her own career. Her lawyer father and homemaker mother were young parents, and her maternal grandparents, Papa Sam from Russia and Nana from Yugoslavia, were ever-present. Brown had, by her own account, a pretty ordinary upbringing in suburban Chicago. She credits her grandparents for planting that seed early. Whether at the makeup mirror or in conversation, forging a human connection has always been a priority for Brown. Her first run of 15,000 units each sold out immediately, and, the following year, she upped the quantity to 500,000 each, which sold out in under ten minutes. In 2015, Kylie Jenner released her signature lip kits online, announcing the launch on her social-media channels. While beauty lines once relied on the department store for success, that traditional route has been upended by a direct-to-consumer approach. These days, however, makeup artist-backed lines are no longer an unusual concept (Kardashian go-to Mario Dedivanovic is a recent launch), nor is the idea of skin-tone inclusivity: Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty offers an extensive shade range.
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Brown’s focus on a wide range of skin tones was also novel at the time. A precursor to other successful makeup artist-founded lines-François Nars created Nars Cosmetics in 1994, and Laura Mercier started her namesake label in 1996-the Bobbi Brown brand had a natural aesthetic that ran counter to the theatrical, over-the-top stylings of, for example, M.A.C, which was gaining popularity at the time. When Brown first entered the collective beauty consciousness, she was, for many reasons, an anomaly. “You look better but not like you’re wearing anything.” “It’s the ultimate no-makeup makeup,” says Brown, 63. Instead, she’s calling it Jones Road, which she came up with while navigating around the Hamptons with Waze. When she left Lauder, she relinquished the rights to use her name for another cosmetics brand. While her new line has a similar aesthetic, it cannot come out under her own name. With her skin-toned lipsticks and shimmer brick bronzers, Brown has long touted a minimal, fresh-faced look that is also her own.
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